Persian territory

About halfway from Yerevan to the 13th century monastery of Tatev, there are large gates on an alpine mountain pass that signal the beginning of Persian territory - or at least, the end of Russian natural gas delivery, and the beginning of Iran's in the southern province of Syunik. Another 50km and we would've been …

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Khor Virap – Spiritual birthplace

One look at a cloudless Ararat confirmed our itinerary today: we were off to the spiritual birthplace of modern Armenia, the ancient city of Artashes founded in 180 BC, now known as the monastery of Khor Virap. Legend has it that Hannibal himself founded this city while fleeing his Roman conquerers. Situated right on the …

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Anglicans in Yerevan

I accidentally said the filioque. It's an Anglican service, but out of respect for the generosity of using the Armenian Apostolic church of Zoravor, no one says it. We are in Zoravor Astvatsatsin Church downtown Yerevan, rebuilt in 1693 after an earthquake. Armenian worshippers continuously light candles in the narthex while the 20-odd Anglican worshippers …

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Xenophon in Armenia

The first look at a foreign politeia is clouded by abstractions and generalizations, some of which continue in their imaginative force until eventually they are accepted as true. In this respect, there is no difference between the account of a native and a foreigner. The stories we tell ourselves limit our horizon and become our homeland. At first blush, …

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